![]() There is no perfect CRT look, it differes between games and platforms and slight hardware imperfections are the part of the package.Īnd once you stop fiddling and start actually playing and enjoying the games all these things fade away, because the OCD is in the mind. You're right about giving up, just first reset it to defaults, then use the suite to sort the colours and few games to whip the rest into some sort of reasonable shape and then quickly forget about service menus. It is a rabbit hole Especially if you have more than one source. It seems like I can get the grid all nice but when I look some game (like LttP) the menus look skewed (like the box in the upper right). Yeah I have a bit of that problem with my SD2SNES menu, when I highlight an item towards the bottom of the list I can see the screen 'bow' a bit on the sides. It's fascinating too to change the brightness from dark to low and see how the picture seems to zoom in and out. Those phenoments are easier to see on TV with manual knows to change this. On older screen, focus is also a dang thing to tune a bright screen will be blurry, but if you tune the focus on it, then anything not bright white will be blurry as well. You can reduce this phenomement by darkenign your screen it's fascinating to see how things move in place when you reduce brightness. You mgiht notice this with game that show brigh screens (Donkey Kong Country 2 on SNES, with the levels in that dark and the flaslight are really good for that) whe nthe screen goes white, you can hear the TV hgih voltage supply whirring louder and the screen "jumps".īecause you send more energy on the TV screen, and it's a physical thing, you have the canon that moves and the metal grid whit are heated differently, causing distorsion that is purely mechanical. It shouldn't be used like a test card, at least not on a CRT.įor the menus looking wonky, it's mostly because of the CRT tech. That gris is more used to test the screen itself, to check for tearing, misalignment, etc. But for a modern TV that likely uses driver ICs and has OSD adjustments, the proper adjustment is probably to clean out the cobwebs. The first picture is a bit titled, sorry.įor older TVs, the screen warpage was typically fixed with linearity controls. I've adjusted it a bit since then but this is pretty close to how it currently looks. Here's a picture of how it currently looks. There's also some blurring on the sides of the screen, but I think this is a known issue for this model of TV. Does anyone know if any games (SNES, NES, Genesis, TG-16, etc.) that use the full overscan area for anything?īTW if anyone knows how to adjust this model TV to help eliminate the vertical bowing (the left and right sides of the top of the screen droop a bit, or the middle is bowing outwards) let me know. Should I extend it more? Some people say to extend the width until the middle of the dots are on the sides (using the 240p grid) which seems a bit excessive to me. I'm losing half an inch or so on the sides of the screen on my SNES and NES games, but I don't think it's going to hurt anything. So what I've done is make it so my Genesis displays full screen which mean some of the overscan area is off screen. Normally I just use the 240p suite on my SNES and keep the entire overscan grid in view, but I've been told that you really don't need to do that and in fact you'll see garbage in that area on some games (not to mention the Genesis is severely underscanned if you do this). ![]() I have it mostly straightened out, although there is a bit of vertical bowing at the top I can't seem to adjust, but now I need to figure out how much overscan I should leave on the sides. I'm currently in the process of fixing the geometry of a 27" CRT that I picked up at MGC (a Samsung TX-S2783).
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